Life on the Move: July 2010

Friday, July 30, 2010

Tokyo

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 3:20 AM / / 0 comments

So we arrived today in Japan. We arrived and our sponsor met us at the airport and brought us to our hotel, that we will call home for the next week. He took us around base to fill out paper work and put our housing together. It turns out that we will not be able to live off of base this year. So we looked at a few "condo" ish places on base. We took a place across the street from the hospital that Star will be working. It is very nice and large at 1496 sq ft.

We went off base for lunch and found an excellent pasta place. They make the pasta in front of you!! Very cool, The bowls come in a lite sauce that you put chives and/or ginger on. Down the order line there are several different tempura to choose from. Out of the five that I picked, I only knew what one was. The rest were fabulous except the battered raw egg. Of course I did not realize it was an egg until it was in my mouth.

Today was cool. Tomorrow we are picking up phones and travelling deeper into Fussa. I am trying to get outside to climb tomorrow or Sunday. Here are some pictures from today.

Enjoy.

Monday, July 26, 2010

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 3:51 PM / / 0 comments

So I have not been able to train while at Star's parents house so I decided to build a hang/campus board. Very simple and easy. I used three pieces on the rafter in the garage. A sloper to the left and a 1/4" piece out of view on the opposite side. The main piece is 1/2" with the top edge sanded to a rounded edge and several holes drilled to simulate pockets. Fun and a sure workout.

Last Day at Squamish

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 3:32 PM / / 0 comments

The Chief

On the last day in Squamish we decieded to Climb a easy multipitch on the Apron. We climbed a 6 pitch 10a, Over the Rainbow. It was a fun climb, but the Apron is a shit show. There are climbers climbing on top of other climbers. Free soloist passing parties and gumbies doing some dangerous stuff. The line though, was fun. The money pitch is the over the rainbow pitch. a peice of gear then pull a lip to 10a slab for 4 bolts. I am, as you know, not a fan of slab. But I am a fan of rock climbing and pushing myself. And hard runout slab is that way. We did not have our small camera so no pictures from the day but it was beautiful. We wound up linking the last two pitches and finished just over three hours. Star said that she thinks that it would have gone faster if she was not prego. It was a nice morning.

I never mentioned but we stayed at a splendid bed and breakfast, Glacier View. The owners, Mike and Beryl and fantastic. They are a sure pleasure to be around. Not to mention the wonderful no frills but very thoughtout breakfasts are sensational. I highly reccomend their BnB to everyone.

We had a great time in Squam and would love to go back, but of course there is Japan first. We leave in a few days and we are sure ready.

Go Climb Something!!!

Friday, July 23, 2010

The Grand Wall

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 11:36 AM / / 0 comments

Getting Seasoned in the Sun

Or Seasoned in the Shade

Star on the crack

At the best of Rutabaga and Arrowroot

Yesterday we had a great day on the right side of the Grand Wall. We climbed a classic finger crack, Seasoned in the Sun. What a great crack. ratty and marginal at the bottom and killer at the top. On the walk back we found this very obscure bolted face line that was new and not listed in the guide. For some reason it inspired me. Now I must explain that I am from the southeast and I am a fan of the steep faces. Honestly the more over hung the better. So being inspired by slab is a big deal for me. Very fun moves tough at the top and you place a #3 under a roof before the anchors. I give it a star. I'd give it two but the flake ledge is above it which leaves all of the holds dirty after rain. I sent on the second go. I'm not sure about the grade, maybe 10d everywhere or 10a Squamish. It's not that the routes are hard for the grade, but the technique and style of climbing here is different than I am used to. Very fun though.

After we walked down the wall looking toward the Bullestheads for inspiration. We wound up realizing it was 7pm and decided to grab some dinner. Great day.

Today it's the Apron. Looking at Over the Rainbow, Didier, or One Scoop with Delicious Dimples. Stay tuned for photos from today's events!!!!

Thursday, July 22, 2010

Squamish

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 11:47 AM / / 1 comments

Exasperator

The Chief at sunset

I have never been to Yosemite, but I imagine that driving in to Squamish and seeing the Stawamus Chief for the first time would be like seeing El Cap for the first time. The amount of granite here is overwhelming. We arrived in the afternoon and decided to acquaint ourselves with the area and the whats happenings. We figured out the scene and grabbed dinner at the Howe Sound Inn and Brew house. Great I.P.A.

The next day we headed to the grand wall and climbed some very nice lines. As you hike up you move through a very nice boulder field. There are some many boulder problems that beg to be climbed. We made it to the base with no one around. We roped up and climbed an amazing splitter Exasperator. Next we climbed Apron Strings next with was some work. The whole line is a 25m lie back with smears on granite. TOUGH!!! Super fun though. Placing passive gear on a lie back is harder than it sounds. When the sun peaked above we headed to Murrin park to scope that out. Cool day. We were pooped and ready to plan our next days adventures.

Baby Shower/Going Away Party

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 11:30 AM / / 0 comments

A few days ago Star's parents threw a party for us. It was GREAT. Several of Star's friends from high school came. Some of our closest friends Sean and Michele came too. It was very nice to see everyone. Some of Rod and Robin's friends from a farm down the street came by and brought some homemade beer, awesome. The next day we left for Squamish for some climbing. The weather seems to be perfect for camming in some killer splitters.

Monday, July 19, 2010

Oregon Woods

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 6:07 PM / / 1 comments

I really loved this photo and hope you do too

Oregon Coast

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 4:37 PM / / 0 comments

Three Sisters

On the way back to Washington Star thought it would be cool to take the 101 home. So that's what we did.

Viva la Prego!!!

Go Climb Something!!!!

Sunday, July 18, 2010

Smith Day 3 and 4

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 3:54 PM / / 0 comments

Star on a classic line at Smith

Andy working a 11d, strong work

Calm and cool on Panic Attack 12a

Still smooth on PA

Sun set at Smith

Here are a few pictures from the third and fourth days. We checked out the Morning Glory wall and the Phoenix walls. Both are littered with wonderful lines. The last day I went for the send on Panic Attack but slipped at the top with no more daylight. Sucks but I know I could have send on my third go. Silly mistake of feet too low. Anyway Here are a few shots that we liked. Hope you will too.

Go Climb Something!!!!!

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Smith Rock Day 1 and 2

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 12:35 PM / / 0 comments

So Smith Rock is pretty sweet!!! Star and I arrived to Terrebonne on Monday afternoon. We arrived to shade on the east walls with a substantial amount of wind. The weather now is perfect. Of course that's in the shade. In the sun you are miserable. Anyway, we hiked down to the Christian Brothers area and realised right away that we would be buying a stick clip that night. Many of the older routes' starting bolts are 12 to 18ft off of the ground!!!!! Stick it or die that's been my motto. We climbed some very cool lines on day one trying to get used to the rock. All of the 10s that we have climbed have been very polished. The 11s so far are polished a bit less and the 12s have chalked hands and some polished feet. All in all the routes here are stiff. After climbing here two days I have figured this place out a bit. Onsighting here is tough but red pointing is easier. The rock appears crumbly but is actually very nice. For me it has been tough adapting to the foot holds here. I seem to look for the chalked hold when I should be looking for a hold in the area of need. Smith is heady and super fun.

We actually were able to meet up with some friends that we met in Thailand. Totally random. Jen and Andy are super cool and we are going to climb with them tomorrow.

On the second day, we climbed at the Dihedrals area then moved farther down the Christian Bros. wall. We climbed Wedding Day 10a, Hersey 11c, Earth Boy 10b, and Overnight Sensation 11b that was as hard as any 12a that I have climbed. Great days so far.

So we are heading out now will post more photos soon.

Go Climb Something!!!!1